Another Guest Columnist: Queso Cojita

Inspired by last episode's guest column, my dear friend Mo D. submitted the following review, replete with typical Mo-esque pizazz, and more than a touch of political punditry. Take it away, Mo!

I have recently sampled a new cheese.

QUESO COTIJA is the hard, white Mexican cheese that often appears atop tostadas, enchiladas, and beans at California-style Mexican establishments such as San Diego monster chain Roberto's. I recently purchased some at my local hippie food co-op to play a supporting role in a batch of enchiladas suizas, where organic lowfat Monterey Jack was dominating the dairy factor. Much like John Kerry's unabashed dominance over the race for the Democratic candidacy, the two cups of jack that I added made for a solid roadblock of cheese that dared to be the tortillas and beans' equal.

But sitting atop the hot, fresh-from-the-oven enchiladas, was a handful of grated cojita. The salty, tangy flavor added a harder, noticeably forceful element, much like Howard Dean's rise and fall. But the cojita can never be used like Monterey jack. Surely the hard, somewhat rubbery texture (much like what I imagine John Kerry’s face to feel like) would overpower the other flavors, leading to resentment and buyer’s remorse. Sometimes, good things should be used sparingly, and cojita is a prime example. An exclusively cojita batch of enchiladas would mirror the presidency of Bill Clinton: too salty for most, just right for a few, leading to a push for more conservative use in future batches. I found myself savoring the bites that included cojita much longer than the cojita-free bites. Cojita also does well on its own, served atop crackers or tortillas.

Thanks again, Mo! Stay tuned for some original material, which is assuredly, imminently forthcoming. I swear.

Special Guest Columnist: Grafton Village Cheddar

Today Dairyland presents an entry by special guest reviewer Charles M., a dear college chum of mine and fellow tyrophile. He's also, as will be obvious in this review, a gourmet beer guzzler. Take it away, Chuck!

I went to a Vermont cheese and beer tasting last night [Feb. 18--Ed.] at the Blind Tiger in the West Village, and sampled what might have been the best cheddar cheese I've ever eaten. Grafton Village 4-star Cheddar (aged 4 years). Slightly crumbly and dry, almost like parmigianno reggiano, with a complex, salty sharpness. They also featured a Grafton Maple-Smoked Cheddar, which was smoked with maple wood and tasted slightly sweet and almost bacony. Those two were the big winners. They also had a Crowley Colby and a couple of raw milk farmhouse cheeses from Orb Weaver Farm, as well as a Vermont Sherphed raw milk sheep cheese from Major Farm - all of which were quite tasty but a bit mild for my tastes. Matched all these with a Magic Hat Ravell (vanilla-bean-flavored porter) and a McNeill's Old Ringworm (supposedly a barleywine but not as sweet as a normal one, and very malty). I could have perhaps chosen something with more bite like an IPA, but they were both delicious brews anyway.

Over and out,

Charles